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Technical Information

Here is some information about my current work. Please feel free to contact me if you have any other questions.

I make the aluminum “strap necklaces” with antique French aluminum beads, which were probably made to be used in beaded purses. The advantages of the aluminum over the steel cut bead that was used for beaded purses at the time, was that the aluminum didn’t rust and it was much lighter. If you’ve tried on one of my necklaces, you know that they are surprisingly lightweight. I create the strap by using one needle threaded with silamide, which is a very strong cord, and putting several beads on at a time. I keep adding more beads and weaving back through the previous beads in a certain pattern. It is not a difficult process, just time consuming. The tension is also very important. If the weaving is too tight, the necklace will be stiff and unattractive. While I am “weaving” the strap, I sprinkle in facetted copper beads plated with 22kt gold to add a bit of sparkle.

Once the strap is done, I tie in a new cord and add the gemstone drops. Each drop is knotted so that if one were to be cut off somehow, the rest would stay in place. Sometimes at this point, the necklace needs an accent color. If it does, I will start gathering seed beads from the far reaches of my tiny studio. I will then do samples by adding a few beads along the top of the necklace until I find something that I really love. Next I stitch all the accent beads onto the strap. Finally, I add an 18kt gold clasp.

These necklaces are very strong. Like most beaded jewelry however, it is best to keep them in their own box or bag--separated from metal necklaces and brooches. I know that some people wear my necklaces in the shower, and while swimming—more or less 24 hours a day—but why not get several and give each one a day off? (If you must swim in them, rinse off with fresh water afterward, it will be better for your hair and the cord in the necklace)

The “Nancy” necklaces are made with a single needle netting technique. The gemstone roundels and the antique aluminum beads are all put on at the same time. I use silamide and add one gemstone and two aluminum beads for each stitch. The new beads are woven into one of the beads from the previous stitch. The tension is very important with this stitch. Since the gemstones are all slightly different sizes, I have to adjust the tension so that the necklace remains supple. While I’m weaving, I’ll add 18kt and 22kt gold beads into the piece. I design the necklace so that most of the larger gold beads are on the bottom. The weight keeps the necklace from twisting.

These necklaces are pretty layered over each other or over one of the strap necklaces. If you choose to do this, I can size the necklaces so that they will fit together perfectly.

People often ask me where I get my antique seed beads. I’ve been buying them for years in antique stores, flea markets, garage sales, pow wows, and bead stores. I’ve taken apart old beaded gowns, damaged beaded handbags and jewelry. I get my gemstone beads from the same sources plus, trusted dealers and gem shows. I always pick out the most beautiful and unusual stones that I can find.I also enjoy using beads and stones from a client’s personal collection.

Thank you for your interest in my work.

Susan Hoge

Detail of "Strap" necklace of needle woven
antique French aluminum beads, platinum and
gold plated copper accents with iolite drops.
At Quadrum Gallery, Chestnut Hill, MA.